Pothos is such a wonderful plant that its popularity is growing day by day. Today we will compare two very common varieties.
The main difference between Glacier Pothos and NJoy Pothos is that Pothos N Joy has larger leaves with more pointed tips. At the same time, Glacier Pothos leaves are smaller, less oval, and less sharp at the end. Also, N Joy Pothos has more green color whereas Glacier Pothos is dominated by white.
|Pothos N Joy||Pothos Glacier|
|USDA Hardiness zone||10-11||10-11|
|Scientific Name||Epipremnum Aureum N Joy||Epipremnum Aureum Glacier|
|Mature height||10′ (3.0m)||6-8′ (1.8-2.4m)|
|Mature width||0.75′ (0.23 m)||3-4′ (0.9-1.2m)|
|Light Requirement||bright, indirect||bright, indirect|
|Soil Type||moist, well-drained||light, free-draining|
|Water Frequency||Water when the potting soil is 25% dry||Water when the potting soil is 25% dry|
|Pests||spider mites, mealybugs, thrips||spider mites, mealybugs, aphids|
|Diseases||root rot||root rot, fungal issues|
Glacier Pothos has smaller leaves than its competitor. It is also more rounded but still heart-shaped. The leaf tip of this variety is less pointed.
NJoy Pothos, on the other hand, has larger leaves that can reach 2 inches in length and a little less in width. But compared to most varieties, the leaves of NJoy Pothos are still smaller. The leaf shape is heart-shaped but more oval and the tip is more pointed.
As for color, Glacier Pothos has more white than green. In addition, the white spots are more elongated and create the effect of white streaks. More white is a decorative advantage, but the chlorophyll-free tissue is more susceptible to fungal diseases.
NJoy Pothos has about the same amount of green and white. The colors are chaotically intertwined with each other to create an irregular effect. The NJoy Pothos leaf features a glossy top and a matte underside. While the competitor’s leaf is glossy on both sides.
The size and shape are the next difference. NJoy Pothos grows up to 10 feet tall but is usually less than 1 foot wide. This means that it is a more upwardly elongated plant.
Of course, the final size depends directly on the size of the container. You should install a moss pole to successfully grow this variety.
Glacier Pothos, on the other hand, is slightly lower at maturity. It is 7-8 feet tall but much wider than its competitor, 3 feet or more. This means it produces more side shoots and is more bushy than climbing.
You can easily control the size and shape of both plants by pruning. Use only sharp and sterile tools for pruning. Do not cut more than a third of the plant at a time.
You can stick the cuttings into the potting soil and they will take root. You can get new plants this way.
The only time Njoy Pothos can bloom is at maturity. But for that to happen, it has to grow in native conditions with everything it needs. This means that in indoor cultivation, it is almost impossible to see flowers on this plant.
Glacier Pothos, on the other hand, is a bit smaller and has a better chance of blooming in a pot. To succeed in this you need to transplant it to a slightly larger container once a year and use fertile soil. Also, be patient as this process can take years.
Temperature and humidity
Both Pothos N Joy and Pothos Glacier need warm temperatures. The ideal environment for their cultivation is 65-85ºF (18º-28ºC). But if the temperature drops below 50ºF (10ºC), the plants will suffer. Brown or black spots will appear on the leaves.
To avoid this, do not take these plants outdoors in the summer if it is going to be a cold night. Also, always maintain the right temperature, indoors. If there are cold draughts in your house, eliminate them. Also, do not place pothos close to the heating or cooling devices.
Both plants need about 60-70% humidity when it comes to humidity. Usually, it’s a bit lower indoors, so there is a risk that the plants get hurt. If the air is too dry, the leaves can get crispy around the edges or they can get big brown, dry spots.
To avoid damage from dry air, install a humidifier near the plant. You can also keep it simple and place a tray of pebbles and water near the pothos. Avoid misting the leaves with a sprayer as this can lead to leaf disease.
Even though Njoy Pothos is growing higher than its competitor, its growth rate is lower. If you are looking for a slower grower, this is ideal because it also grows slower than most other varieties.
Glacier Pothos is slightly more vigorous than the competition, but as I said before it grows more broadly than upwards. So if you go for this one you will have to shorten it from time to time. You can also slow it down with less frequent fertilization.
Both plants are also very similar in their sunlight needs; they need at least 6 hours of indirect but very bright sunlight. A southern room is ideal but place the plant a few feet away from the window to avoid direct sunlight. An east or west room is also fine, but in this case, place the pothos a little closer to the window.
You should avoid placing any of these plants in direct sunlight. Otherwise, the sun will burn the leaves and they will turn brown. If this happens to your pothos, immediately move it to a shady location and water it one additional time. The burned leaves will no longer be the same, but the plant will recover after a while.
If you place Njoy Pothos or Glacier Pothos in a place with not enough light, such as a bathroom or north room, it will stretch out and weaken. To solve the problem of the lack of light, you need to install artificial light.
For your pothos to thrive, you need to water it when the potting soil is 25% dry from the top. Do not listen to the advice to water your pothos on a schedule, as this can have negative consequences. Ground moisture is the best indicator of a plant’s water needs. During the winter, allow the soil to dry out a little more, about half the depth of the pot.
Always use pots with large drainage holes and well-draining soil. Otherwise, the roots may start to rot and you will have to do a cure. Treating root rot is quite a complicated and long process.
Also, you should not underwater the pothos as it can wilt and the leaves will start to die off. As I said before, don’t let the soil dry out by more than a quarter during the growing season and a half in winter. Water with plenty of water to soak up the soil and let the excess water drain out into the saucer. Do not leave water in the saucer after watering.
As for soil, the requirements of both plants are also similar. They need well-drained and light soil. This requirement is due to the native habitat, as the roots of pothos grow on the bark of trees and in the top layer of soil.
To get the necessary substrate, mix one half potting soil and one half sterile compost. Then add some perlite to it. That will give you a good substrate. Or you can buy a ready-made soil mix for aroids.
Don’t forget to transplant your pothos once every 1-2 years. This is important to do to avoid rootbound. Because rootbound can lead to yellowing of the leaves.
Also, when transplanting, use a pot 1-2 inches larger than the previous pot. If you plant a small plant in a pot that is too big, there will be a lot of soil around the roots. After watering, this amount of soil will dry out slowly, which is equal to overwatering and the roots of the plant may begin to rot.
Feeding is the next important aspect of cultivation. Both plants are not very picky about fertilizers. Besides, if you give them nutrient-rich potting soil with plenty of organic matter as I recommended above you are fine.
But if you want the plants to be a bit more vigorous you can fertilize them every 1.5-2 months. It’s best to use a liquid fertilizer with a balanced NPK formula. Fertilize only in spring and summer, avoid fertilizing in the second half of fall and winter.
Also, make sure that the soil in which the pothos grows is slightly acidic. Because nutrients may not be available to the plant in alkaline soil. To make the soil acidic, use compost or acidifiers.
The first problem with both plants is a disease. Most commonly, pothos leaves suffer from leaf blight and leaf spot. The first disease looks like rotten or watery spots on the leaves, the second like small brown spots on the leaf. If the plant is heavily infested, the leaves will turn yellow and fall off.
To cure the plant, first, ensure good ventilation around the pothos and do not overwater it. Then remove the badly damaged leaves and spray the plant with copper fungicide.
The second problem is pests. Aphids, mites, thrips, mealybugs, and some other insects can damage pothos leaves. To get rid of them, spray the leaves with neem oil. If that doesn’t help, use systemic pesticides. A miticide should be used against mites.