Early Blue Hydrangeas are known for their stunning blue to violet blooms. They’re smaller and more compact than other hydrangeas, making them a unique pick. Classified as lace cap hydrangeas, they boast rounded flowers instead of the typical cone-shaped ones.
These hydrangeas have a lengthy lifespan, so it’s worth spending some time planning their placement and care requirements before you plant them.
Plant profile
| Care/requirements | Early Blue Hydrangea |
| Hardiness: | USDA zone 5-9 |
| Size: | Height 4 ft and width 4 ft |
| Shape: | Rounded with upright stems |
| Type: | Perennial, deciduous, shrub |
| Light requirements: | 4-6 hours of direct sun per day, full sun, partial shade |
| Soil: | Loam or amended soil |
| Soil pH: | 5.0-7.0 Grow best in slightly acidic to little alkaline soil. |
| Watering: | 1-2 times per week in drought. Don’t water in the winter. |
| Growth rate: | Medium |
| Blooming: | Late spring and early fall. On old wood. |
| Flowers color: | Blue |
| Leaves color: | Bright green |
| Fragrance: | Low scent |
| Pots: | Needs a large pot and frequent watering. |
| Best time for planting: | Early spring and early fall |
| Pruning: | Deadheading after flowering and removing deadwood. |
| Reblooming: | In early fall |
| Spacing: | 4 feet apart (center to center) |
| Transplanting: | Early fall or early spring |
| Winter care: | In zone 5, hydrangeas need to be covered. |
| Spring care: | Uncover hydrangeas when there is no risk of late frosts and remove all plant debris. |
| Fall care: | Keep the soil around it slightly moist. Avoid the use of fertilizer. Remove all deadwood and fallen leaves. |
| Fertilizer: | Balanced NPK formula, once per year. |
| Propagation: | By cuttings in early spring. |
| Deer resistant: | No |
| Problems: | Pests, diseases. |
Planting
Early Blue Hydrangeas reach a size of about 4 feet (1.3 meters) in both height and width. Their modest height means you don’t have to worry too much about how tall they’ll get. However, it’s a good idea to allow at least 2 feet (0.6 meters) of space around the base of the plant to avoid crowding with other plants or objects.
The best time to plant them is in early spring, though early fall is also suitable. They go dormant and lose their leaves in late autumn and winter, which means planting them during this period will result in minimal growth. Planting in spring offers more favorable conditions and reduces the risk of transplant shock.
Light requirements
Early Blue Hydrangeas stand out from other hydrangeas because they thrive in conditions that aren’t fully sunny. They do well in both partial shade and full sun, depending on where you live. In warmer areas, they benefit from some shade, but in cooler climates, they can handle full sun.
The key issue in hot climates is that even with plenty of water, intense sun can cause them to dry out and droop. So, in warmer regions, a bit of shade can keep them looking fresh.
However, they still need a decent amount of sunlight, around 6 hours a day. Avoid planting them in areas that are completely shaded, as they won’t do well without sufficient light.
Read also: Hot To Care For Hydrangeas
Soil
Early Bird Hydrangeas flourish in soil that mimics the consistency of store-bought garden compost or potting mix, both of which have a texture similar to garden compost. This kind of soil is loose, drains well, and naturally has the ideal pH for Early Bird Hydrangeas.
However, if you’re using your garden soil and it’s of decent quality, it’s a good idea to test the pH with an affordable soil testing kit from a garden supply store.
The soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7.0. If the pH falls outside this range, your hydrangeas may suffer from nutrient deficiencies, and you’ll need to adjust the soil pH accordingly.
To reduce the soil pH, you can add sulfur, available at garden supply stores. To increase the pH, apply limestone-based products, commonly referred to as lime.
Watering
Early Blue Hydrangea is a plant that thrives on moisture and can’t stand dry conditions. In the first two years following planting, make sure to water it once the top inch of soil dries out. After this initial period, you can cut back on watering, waiting until the top 2 inches of soil are dry before watering again.
Each time you water, use at least one gallon of water, ensuring the soil around the roots is thoroughly saturated. Keep in mind that bigger bushes will require more water.
Be careful not to overwater, especially in winter, as this could cause root rot.
Pruning
Early Blue Hydrangeas bloom exclusively on old growth, meaning the shoots from the previous years. Any sprouts that emerge in the spring and summer of the current year won’t bear flowers. Old growth is typically sturdier and might have a slight bark layer, while new growth appears green and tender.
When it comes to pruning, it’s important to tread lightly to avoid reducing flower production. This is a departure from other hydrangea varieties, which can bloom on the current year’s growth.
Generally, these hydrangeas don’t require much pruning due to their compact size. However, if you’re aiming for a specific shape, pruning is necessary. The best time for this is before spring arrives, with early autumn being optimal. Pruning at this time allows the plant ample opportunity to heal from the pruning’s minor stress and damage.
Problems
There are times when Early Blue Hydrangeas may not flower, especially if the temperatures drop unusually low before the onset of spring and summer. Such cold snaps can freeze and kill the buds. To prevent this, it’s advisable to protect your hydrangeas by covering them during the winter.
Problems with the leaves can stem from either insufficient or excessive watering, as well as issues with pests, mold, and diseases. By adhering to the watering guidelines mentioned earlier, you can easily rectify any leaf problems related to water.
For issues related to insects and mold, treatments with insecticides or neem oil are effective. While diseases are less common, they often require specific treatments and will not always respond to fungicides or neem oil, necessitating a tailored approach for each situation.
Fertilizer
Applying fertilizer in early spring is ideal for giving Early Blue Hydrangeas a boost as they start their new growth phase. If desired, a second application in early summer, about 3 months later, can enhance flower production later in the season and expedite their growth to full size.
A balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer is recommended for these applications. Use 2 cups of this fertilizer for each of the two yearly applications. However, be cautious not to over-fertilize, as too much can harm the plant.
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can you keep indoors in a pot?
You can keep Early Blue in a pot, but not in the house. It will probably not get enough light indoors. In addition, it will be severely depleted during the winter because it will not be able to go into a dormant state. All this can lead to a loss of the hydrangea.
This is such a great info! I purchased a few of these and got them into the ground this weekend. One of them is looking pretty droopy and sad and the blooms are mostly done, look a little brown and kindof falling apart. I initially thought maybe it was getting too much water while it was in the pot but now I’m wondering if maybe it wasn’t getting enough. Is it safe to deadhead these being newly planted?
You may want to avoid pruning your newly planted hydrangeas as this can cause additional stress. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Provide more shade for the hydrangeas. All of this should help.
Hi, I’m in zone 4, South central Minnesota. I just acquired an Early Blue in a 5 inch pot. It has flowers and at least one new one coming. Should I re pot and put outside? Should I plant it outside and take it in before frost, to overwinter in a 40 degree garage?
thank you!
Hi Dolores, you have two options. The first is to cover Early Blue for the winter. Here you can see how that can be done. The second is what you are talking about, transplant it into a pot and move it to an unheated garage for the winter.
Thank you for this article. Theres a lot of good info in it. I’m in NE GA mountains. I bought an early blue in the early summer. I keep it in a large pot that has been on my covered front porch with late afternoon sun for maybe 3-4 hours. The 2 flowers that I bought it with have been green (im thinking was blue when i bought ut, but i cant remember for sure). I just moved all my potted plants to my garage since we had our first frost last week. The flowers are starting to turn a deep purple. What can I do to get the blooms blue for next year?
Hi, Lisa. To get the blue color you need to use aluminum sulfate. You can easily find this product on sale.
We are in zone 8b and I thought I’d try planing on the northeast facing side of the house and hopefully this will alleviate too much hot afternoon sun. We live in the forest with a lot of pines so hopefully ph shouldnt be an issue. Does that sound like a good idea?
Hi Mary, it sounds like you have the perfect conditions for this hydrangea. Just a reminder to keep it well-watered, especially during its first year. Happy gardening!